10 Words Definely Loosely in Fiji /
In Fiji, as in any other foreign country, one needs to give pause and carefully consider how the English language is used. In France, for instance, a coffee is not a coffee as defined at home. It's an espresso, tiny and powerful, delicious in its own way but certainly nothing like a beloved Dunkin Donuts (with milk and Splenda). In Mexico, in a different type of mis-definition, an "ocean-view suite" might in fact be a dark, dank basement-like apartment that, when one positions oneself in just the right way in just the right corner near the foot of the bed -- a tiny sliver of crashing wave can be spotted.
In Fiji, over the last three weeks, Bryan and I have learned which English words to be wary of; which ones may be given to loose definition and dubious application. Behold, 10 to watch:
1. "Resort"
2. "Cruise"
3. "Fifteen" (as in, oh yes, that's only
fifteen minutes by foot)
4. "Soon"
5. "Taxi"
6. "Milk" (it's all powdered here)
7. "Supermarket"
8. "Salad" (when served with a sandwich, "salad" will often be a few shreds of carrot in mayonnaise)
9. "Easy" (most commonly used in cohoots with "hike" or "trek")
10. "Fan-cooled"
Not that I don't find this all endearing and entertaining -- it's all part of the traveler's learning curve. I'm just sayin', it helps to leave your dictionary at home and your mind open, to, um, interpretation.
Right now we're at an odd Internet spot in Nadi, home of Fiji's international airport, awaiting tomorrow's arrival of one Ms. Moylan and one Mr. Buono. We couldn't be more excited to be joined by friends... It does sort of feel like we've been gone forever already. It's finally sunny again (thus, of course, we're inside on the Internet! Naturally!) and I think we'll have good weather for the boat trip to the Yasawa Islands tomorrow. There are many more stories to relate -- I wonder, are we posting too much? Not enough? Are you sick of hearing about Fiji and its loosely defined words?
We may be out of touch for a few days as we enjoy our time with the Moylan/Buonos. Much love to everyone back home and HEY who did the Bachelor pick, anyway?!
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Guilty Admission #001 /
On this day, the 23rd day of February in 2006, one week into my 35th year of life (technically, I guess it is my 36th year), I finished a book. Not just any book, but a Pulitzer Prize winning book with almost 550 pages! To many, this is not a huge feat, but for me it is worth writing about. You see, since our move to California in 2000, I can count on one hand (after lopping off my index, ring, and pinky fingers) how many non-computer books I have completed. I have started many, but usually don’t get more than 100 pages in before tiring and retreating to the 600 channels on DirecTV.
With two completed books in six years (Capote’s In Cold Blood, and Vonnegut’s The Sirens of Titan), I set a goal to become more literate on our trip. Without Mr. TiVo and Ms. Wireless Internet Access serving as distractions, reading at least one book a month seems an attainable goal. Other books currently in the queue are two Raymond Chandler books (Thanks, John!), The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay (read 78 pages in my first failed attempt), and The Avengers (given to us by Allyson’s father). Still need more reading material, so please offer up suggestions based on your favorite reads. I look forward to your recommendations; after all, reading is fundamental … and fun!!
I was reluctant to start my first book, and feared finding something that I could really get into so early on in the trip. So, I asked Allyson her thoughts, and she recommended “Middlesex” by Jeffrey Eugenides. Suggested by Sue and having just completed it herself, Allyson said the blend of history (the Turks, the Greeks, the Burning of Smyrna), the science (Genetics, Nature vs. Nurture, and gonads), and the personal relationships (The Obscure Object, Clementine Stark, and Zora) would appeal to me. Apparently, it did, as I finished the book in less than two weeks (Call Guinness!). A great read with a unique style of writing. Also, I had an added pressure: it must be completed before Heather and Eugene’s arrival in Fiji on 3/1, as Allyson had already promised the book to Heather.
Serving as a nice segue, this book exchange, I must take a moment to say how excited we are for our friends’ arrival. The last 18 days have been very good for me and Allyson, dealing with the ups and downs of budget travel … together, opening up lines of communication, seeing amazing things and meeting interesting and culturally different people. However, to share a week with two of our best friends will be the perfect way to end our time in Fiji.
After Fiji’s Yasawa Islands, the four of us will travel together to New Zealand for a week, then Heather and Eugene go on to Sydney alone. While we’ll surely be busy catching up, touring the sights and sharing new experiences, I do hope to find a spare moment or two to read a few more pages.
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On the Eve of Bryan's 35th, I Cried / (Written on 2/19) I know that, when you're traveling -- especially budget traveling -- things will undoubetdly, and incessantly, go wrong. You'll miss a flight, become miserably lost in 95-degree heat, having forgotten your water, or get caught in a torrential downpour wearing a thin white t-shirt and porting your camera in your backpack. You'll come face-to-face with a big furry spider, spend far more money than you planned, eat the wrong thing, wear the wrong shoes (thus getting stuck in jungle mud), and perhaps offer the sacrifice of 29 mosquito snacks in one 15-minute period. You'll share a bathroom with other dirty travelers, stepping on frogs at 2 a.m. on the way to pee, returning later that morning only to be rewarded with a freezing-cold shower.
I know because each of these things has happened to me and Bryan already. And we're just getting started.
And of course I can embrace all of this, all of this
experience, along with the best of them. Because in between the mishaps and the mayhem, there are gorgeous sunsets, new friends, big breakfasts, amazing sights, and love. So it makes it all okay.
Most of the time.
The day before Bryan's birthday, the 15th of February (still the 14th in the U.S.) was an especially crappy day. We'd showed up at the Nadi airport early for an 11:30 flight, as instructed by the airline employee I spoke with on the phone, ready to buy our $113 tickets to the island of Taveuni. Now if you've ever been to Fiji you probably know what we've quickly learned -- first, assume and expect nothing is as it seems, and second, give yourself an excess of time to do so. When we walked up to the counter we were quickly informed that there was no such $113 rate -- ever -- and our tickets would cost upwards of twice that, depending on how nice we were. While $280 (or $206) Fijian isn't all that much in the real world, we're trying mightily to stick to a budget and round-trip air is a relatively major expense. So we decided to step back and reevaluate. We checked with the one other airline, trudged with our heavy backpacks to a few travel agents, and eventually determined that we were either a) stuck in Nadi (not so desireable) or b) stuck paying at least $206 apiece. Of course, by the time we settled on flying to Taveuni and then taking a (23-hour) ferry ride back, the 11:30 was fully booked.
So we moved on to the afternoon flight -- 2:30 -- and proceed to trek back to the ticket counter for the umpteenth time to make our purchase. The big Fijian laughs as we begin to slide our AMEX across: all credit card machines have been down for the last two days, so we'll have to pay cash. Amazingly the cash machine in (and at the other end of the) airport takes our card, and when we march back up we're rewarded with the sight of the Air Fiji agent reaching down, unlocking a metal cash box with a key literally dangling from a string around his neck, and carefully placing our bills inside.
After spending a good six hours at this little airport, Bryan and I board the tiny plane along with one other solo passenger. There's so many empty seats that Mr. Hunter Jr. gets his own, a window view. Things are looking up.
When we arrive in Taveuni, we're surprised (but not too surprised) to see that the "airport" is no larger than our house in San Francisco. There are villagers milling about, and a bathroom full of flies but devoid toilet paper. Our ride appears and we begin the one-hour off-road drive to our destination: Susie's Plantation Resort. We'd read about Susie's in Lonely Planet, also maybe somewhere else. Our chat with the Australian owner has ensured us a nice, en suite bure for $70 Fijian a night. Well within budget.
When we arrive at Susie's, we're struck by the beautiful grounds and its perch over the ocean. The owner meets us immediately and proceeds on a quick tour, while we try to ignore the sweat dripping down our backs and the dirt under our fingernails. All lovely, all nice, may I please have a shower? Well first there's the little business of price: $120 a night, naturally, for the bure?
(This has happened to us almost everywhere we've gone so far in Fiji -- been quoted one rate before arriving, only to have it multiply mysteriously upon arrival.)
In Susie's defense, they eventually honored the $70 rate upon our departure, which turned out to be a full three days earlier then we'd planned. Blame it on that shower.
Once we let ourselves into our little bure, we immediately looked at one other in dismay. I mean -- we're ready for budget. We're accepting of showering down the hall, and crafting a makeshift contact lens washbin from a cut-in-half-bottle of water. We're okay with some bugs and lizards and a moldy pillow or two. But this was seriously gross. The room was dark, dank, with a plastic sticker floor. Ants ran this way and that, and the mosquito net that hung over the bed was musty and scratchy to the touch. Then there was the bathroom. It too was dark, damp, lacking towels and desperately in need of a good cleaning. But I was determined to keep a positive outlook -- after the mud mishap, the downpour, the mosquitoes, the freezing showers -- how bad could it be? The next day was Bryan's big birthday, and naturally, I wanted it to be special. I'd feel fine about this place after a nice hot shower, I promised myself.
So I stripped down and adjusted the mildewy, wet handle of the nozzle as best I could. Then I stepped inside onto the gray, slimy, uneven floor -- and I fell. I went down hard, grabbing the slippery, disintegrating shower curtain as I plummeted, hitting my arm and my back and getting Bryan to move at the speed of light. And then I cried. I cried because it hurt, but also because of the frustration of things gone awry, of my plans for his birthday, and maybe because I was just a little bit homesick.
[I took a picture of the shower (and of Bryan in the trunk of a stationwagon taxi after the torrential downpour episode, and of Mr. Hunter on the plane) but you'll have to
find them yourself, as the pay-by-the-minute Internet precludes proper flickr-linking.]
Needless to say, we spent that first night at Susie's and then quickly checked ourselves out. On Bryan's birthday night we made our way up to Taveuni's Garden Island Resort -- an old redone Travelodge that might as well be the Four Seasons as far as I'm concerned. It costs $157 Fijian a night, and has a hot shower, clean sheets, a pool (with lounge chairs!), air-conditioning, daily maid service, and -- get this -- a
hairdryer. We had a great February 16th after all.
As far as the island itself is concerned, we're still a bit behind on exploring. The room rate has forced us to conserve in other areas during the day (e.g. meals, taxi rides, activities, etc.) so we're instead indulging in some lazy poolside days and DVD-filled nights. From what we've seen so far, Taveuni is truly a trip: There is no ATM, a bank that only exchanges cash, and an Indian man who will swipe your credit card in exchange for 5% and a musty roll of Fijian bills he pulls from a wooden drawer beneath his register. Internet is $1 a minute (dial-up) and only available at this splurge hotel we're at right now. Villagers walk along the dusty curb, nearly sideswiped by trucks every few feet, and half of the single road that circles the island is unpaved. It's truly breathtakingly beautiful, and quiet and lush, and by the time we leave we might be in love with it.
We're in Taveuni for a few more days before heading to Fiji's capital of Suva. As I write this endless blog enrty, my Susie's shower bruises are healing and I'm hoping I'll get a chance to get online. I'll likely post this when we arrive in Suva, sometime during the last week of February. I haven't checked my e-mail in five whole days, the longest yet. I guess that's why this story is so long. I can't believe you're still reading.
Love and kisses!
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Tom and Katie Really Are Just Like Us! /
Imagine my shock, excitement, and then dismay when I learned today that we missed none other than Mr. Cruise and Ms. Holmes by mere hours (okay, maybe days, but still!) in Fiji's International Airport! And that the oh-so-happy couple were vacationing in Fiji -- just like us! (Granted, they were rumored to be staying at the $2,000-a-night most exclusive resort, and we're paying $60 for shared showers and mothball-smelling pillows, but still!) And -- that the Fiji Times reports, "Mr Cruise did not hesitate when approached to pose for a photograph at the airport."
Unbelievable.
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The Land That Internet Forgot / Greetings from the Fijian island of Taveuni, where dial-up access is $1 a minute and available almost nowhere. We're alive and well, over budget and slightly tanned. There is more to report and lovely pictures to post, but that will have to wait until we arrive in Suva, Fiji's capital city, on or about February 24 (and after a 23-hour ferry ride.) We both wanted to say a quick hello and, of course, let you know that we anxiously await this week's updates from our friends with fortuitously diverse tastes in reality TV.
And Bryan says thank you for all the thoughtful birthday wishes!
More soon.
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Week One In Photos /Once we'd successfully mastered the sleep/eat/read/sleep routine, Bryan and I decided it was time we started doing some actual stuff. So, in the most recent few days, we've attended a local rugby tournament, explored Nadi town, hiked to a waterfall, crafted coconut jewelry and even made a few nice friends.
Here are some pictures.
We're leaving The Beach House tomorrow and flying to the island of Taveuni, which we're not sure how to pronouce. There may or may not be Internet access where we're staying... I'm looking forward to exploring somewhere new.
We miss everyone! And thanks for checking in.
PS Can someone please let me know who was eliminated last week from The Bachelor, Dancing With the Stars, and Project Runway? Thanks again!
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Frogs, Why'd It Have to be Frogs!?! /
It is the morning of our fourth day in Fiji, and our third day at The Beach House. This reef-side resort came as a recommendation from fellow travelers, Han and Tevi, and so far it is living up to expectations.
At 6am, my now-normal wake-up time, I am sitting on the beach with a tiger-striped cat that I will now name Emily. She is quite friendly, not too skinny, and doesn't seem to be flea-infested. Did I mention her golden eyes? While Allyson sleeps, Emily and I will tell you about the frogs; the many, many frogs, both big and small.
The first encounter came at sunset on our first night. Learning our way to the shared bathroom (yes, we are growing more accustomed to that), we noticed that the rock-walk was moving ... not just a little, but a lot, even off the grassy sides of the path. Upon closer inspection, we determined that the movement was frogs ... frogs that only come out for the nightlife, the hip-hop'n nightlife!
Allyson and I both love frogs and we have sort of been collecting them since our purchase of a hand-painted clock back in Northhampton, MA in 1993. We were preparing for our first apartment together in Boston, and this amphibious clock seemed so very appropriate. Since '93, we have purchased a solid bronze frog in Sante Fe, gender-accurate frogs (yes, complete with male and female genitalia) in Taos, and a frog wine-stopper in Napa. We will see how many frogs (non-living, of course) will end up in our packs. These frogs seem to play a certain happiness in our life journeys thus far.
So, even knowing that frogs will be a part of our Fijian nightlife, we were still not fully prepared for what happened last night. Heading to the bathroom for the last "break" of the evening, we entered our respective stalls and were greeted by the grandaddys of all frogs, seemingly guarding the toilets against any evil spirits. Completely spooked, I could swear I heard my grandaddy say, "Have you ever seen a grown frog naked!?!"
The frogs are actually quite friendly (pictures to follow; darn dialup!) and do get out of the way when you approach ... I guess it is frog-nature not to get squished.
Well, Emily seems to be tired and has drifted off to sleep next to me. I am off for a swim until Allyson awakes, and then, well ... who knows ... we have no plans today. Life is really good right now!
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Fiji's #1 Killer /We're settled in comfortably at
The Beach House, a "backpacker's resort" on the coast of Fiji's Viti Levu island. It's pretty and pleasant, much like a low-cost version of Hawaii's Kona Village (and without the luxury of, say, a private bathroom.) We're planning to stay for 4 nights but might extend to 7 -- buy 6 and the 7th is free, which literally equals the cost of 4 one-hour massages. (They're $20 Fijian each, or about $12 US. How can I possibly resist?)
While I'm attempting to fully relax and enjoy the Beach House's plentiful hammocks and 5-hour jewelry-making classes, I'm admittedly plagued by a few worries, for instance fear of falling coconuts. Coconutophobia? We've heard from numerous sources that such natural disasters are the #1 cause of death in Fiji. Be warned! Do not be tempted by the palm trees' inviting shade and breeezy green fronds! I also worry intermittently about leaving valuables in our bure, sharks, mangy dogs with unidentifiable skin afflictions, and the distinct possibility that I will never get tan.
On the bright side, it's completely lovely here, and they have 5-hour jewelry-making classes. They also have computers that allow us to access the desktop and thus to offload photos -- but the connection is dial-up and at the moment I am unable to get even a single photo to worm its way onto Flickr. Stay tuned...
(Also, if you e-mailed me and I haven't responded yet, please don't give up hope -- this dial-up is making even a single blog post nearly impossible. Oh, for the Motel 6's high-speed wireless!)
Day 3 nearly complete, and still no death by coconut. Yay!
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A Pre- (and Post-) Flight Celebrity Sighting /Blogger's note: The good news is, we can buy Internet access (20 Fijian cents a minute) from our current location, the Nadi Bay Hotel in Fiji. The bad news is, we can't upload photos. The injustice of it all, I know! So I'll try to do this without the assistance of Flickr visual aids.Before Sarah dropped us off at LAX, we saw
Jordis Unga (of Rock Star INXS semi-fame) walking with a friend on Melrose. Bryan spotted her, and I ran up to see if she was photograph-friendly. Negative. Jordis does report "no, not really" when asked if she's singing these days. Our brief meeting was a disappointing addition to my nice little cache of star interludes, though I'm heartened by the reminder of what a great celebrity sighting team Bryan and I make.
Then we sat on a plane for 11 hours, only to be greeted after landing by a group of Fijian singing celebrities
that looked like this -- at 3 a.m. Much more impressive than Jordis.
We spent our first morning in paradise at an airport-side hotel watching the Super Bowl (minus the U.S. commercials). Then we sat by the pool and tried to ignore our glaring whiteness.
We're really excited to be here.
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And ... We're Off! / 
About a year ago, Bryan and I sat down to talk about our future. The way we saw it, there were three distinct options: 1. Buy a house in San Francisco; 2. Move back east; or 3. Travel around the world. #1 Proved itself cost-prohibitive, in a way that discouraged serious consideration after a few open-house-filled weekends. Neither of us was ready for #2, still missing our families but loving life on the west coast. So process of elimination left #3, a life-changing experience, and something I think I've known I was going to do for a very long time, if only subconsciously. I mean, why else would we still be hanging on to a super-crappy $99 coffee table purchased at Ames in 1993? And only own one set of sheets? And continue renting though we've been together for 13 years and married for 3?
When I first started telling people that Bryan and I were actually taking this trip, I don't think they fully believed we'd go through with it. And the weird thing is, neither did I, in a way. As we went along and started "planning," I felt like we were just making stuff up: Savannah? We could, uh, drive cross-country and leave her with my mom! Where to go first? How about Fiji! Maybe do some volunteer work? Sure! Why not?
But here we are, the morning of February 4, ready to leave
Stephanie and Adam and meet Sarah and Jess and Laura for lunch and then take our first of many many flights. It departs from LAX at 7:15 p.m. today, and lands at 2:45 a.m. on February 6 in
Nadi. We lose February 5 altogether, crossing the dateline I suppose, which we'll remember for always since it's the day of Super Bowl XL. (We're still trying to figure out if we're missing the game altogether or not.)
So the next time we check in it will be from Fiji, which is pretty damn exciting. Oh and I cut all my hair off and made it (a little too) blond.
Until we blog again!
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Guess Who's Coming to Fiji /
We've been asked a few times recently what we're most (and least) looking forward to in the upcoming year of travel. Of course, the list is long and varied, but one constant remains: Our excitement about the prospect of meeting various friends and family along the way. How thrilling will it be to be dirty and sweaty and sick of each other (never!), only to meet up with someone from home in, like, Tanzania, Africa? So thrilling! So far, here's who we're expecting:
1.
Heather and Eugene, meeting us in Fiji, then traveling together to New Zealand where we'll stay for a week as a group.
2
Jen, Drake, Sarah, and Lynn, in Tanzania. We six (Bryan and the ladies) are going on safari, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, and then beaching in Zanzibar.
3
Jen is then traveling on with us to Cape Town, where she, Bryan and I are volunteering together at
this orphanage.
4.
My brother, in Beijing. We're planning to visit Vietnam and Cambodia with him as well.
Who else wants to come?
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